I'd like something fairly fast growing, dense, and easy to care for. Experience in gardening/landscaping is appreciated. I'm looking at the following.
Plum Hedge
Lombardy Poplar
Forsythia
Privet Hedge
Chinese Elm Hedge
I have small children and a dog. The hedge does not necessarily have to be tight enough to serve as a fence, although that would be a nice bonus. Whether or not the hedge is poisonous is another consideration.
What is the best privacy hedge? See details.?
Of your listed choices I would only find 1 acceptable as a privacy hedge. Plum hedges like the purple leaf varieties for example don't get all that big, and they're deciduous, worthless in the winter because you see right through them. The same for Forsythia, plus it gets wider than tall and would take over as it spread. You'd need serious pruning yearly because of the fast growth rate and to keep young vigorous growth on the plant for it's superior flowers.
The Poplar and Elm you mention are trees, again you'll lose a lot of space eventually unless you elevate the canopy by removing the bottom limbs, then your privacy is gone again.
That leaves the privet, a nice evergreen shrub which also comes in a yellowish color instead of the typical green. It can get to be a monster but shearing every year can keep it under control. Shear wider at the bottom than at the top to allow light penetration to the bottom leaves, this will help prevent leaf drop from the lower branches. Do it once after initial Spring growth spurt then again by mid-Sept at latest. This will keep it under control, and tightly sheared so it looks better.
Another alternative would be "Emerald Green" Arborvitae. They are narrow, just 3 or 4 feet, and grow fairly quickly to their max of 12-15 feet. No shearing for width is necessary, you may want to top them every couple years when they get to desired height. The good things about the arbs are that they are cheap,common, and available just about anywhere, Home Depot, Lowes, etc... in season. Small ones in a one gallon pot shouldn't cost you more than $5 or $6 max, maybe $12 for a good sized 3 gallon. Only drawback to Arbs is they may get spider mites in bad droughts and stressful summers, and bagworms like them. That's easily treated though. Ligustrum (Privet) and the Arbs are both pretty tolerant plants, they'll do fine in Zone 6 and don't really care much what soil they're in as long as they are well watered for the first couple of years. Full sun is best for these, but light shade won't hurt. The more shade the less dense the plant will be.
Reply:A good solution to your question is the holly. Hollies grow in American climates, are attractive and green year-round, and come in sizes ranging from small bush to +40 ft tree. They make great hedges because burglars and nosy neighbors are unable to penetrate the dense thorny leaves and branches. Report It
Reply:Arborvitae is a fast grower and you can purchase them at any height you like. They fill in nice as a privacy hedge.
Privet hedges take forever to grow. I wouldn't use them. The Lombardy Poplar is good too. It makes a difference on how you want it to look also. Forsythia is not good as a privacy cover. I don't know what a Chinese Elm hedge is. The Plum hedge will not grow real fast either. Unless you plan on buying only full grown hedges.
If I were you I would choose either the Lombardy or the Arborvitae.
Reply:We planted lielandii Cypress, it grew super fast, planted at two feet hihg, it grew almost two feet a year. IT is supposed to stop after a certain height. Japanese elm did not turn out for us, but we live in Wa. So different climate..I never saw a bloom once. It grew slowly and got tall, then I had it cut down, dug up and burned. Like a goat....
I have apic of the hedge it created if I run into it I will send it. It separates the pool from the neighbor's view. My dad swims naked.
Reply:I will post the pic on my page here later where you can view my info....I should have given you my elm. I vote the cypress. pic #063 you can barely see the yellow house (old farmhouse I grew up in) yellow!! Why did the new owners want to paint it yellow? Thank goodness for fast growing trees.
Reply:I have hemlocks all around my property..they stay green year round.grow quickly.low maintance...my house is 20 feet from the road.. and no one can see it...LOVE IT !!!
The ones you mentioned are all nice....but they will loose their leaves... and there goes your privacy....
Reply:rosemary is a great hedge. it's hardy and easy to care for. It also smells great!!
It really depends on the weather and soil conditions though, which you haven't supplied.
Reply:Consider Podocarpus - Buddhist pine, Chinese yew
I just planted a dozen of these 2 years ago. These are best suited to mild climates.
This quick growing hedge requires little water and grows to 15 Ft tall +
Rosemary is not so FAST growing and will need to be replanted after maybe 5-7 years.
Cheers
T
Reply:I live in Australia and the plant - Duranta - Mini Gold or Sheena's Gold makes a beautiful hedge. Bright golden foliage with a pale purply spray of flowers, followed by berries that are reported to be poisionous, but I have not heard of anyone being harmed by them. Easy to grow and loves the sun but grows in the cooler climates also.
Monday, May 11, 2009
Why are weed and feeds not recommended? or are they? why or why not?
Also , why do some people put theirs out so early and some put theirs out when forsythia bloom?
which is better?
Why are weed and feeds not recommended? or are they? why or why not?
I use them and I love them!! In my area it is recommended to use them when the Forsythia blooms. I have done this for many years with great results.
Reply:Weed %26amp; feed for grass, no matter how carefully you use them, invariably ends up with a black lawn for 6 weeks.
Reply:Most organic folks don't like round up, this chemical has already done massive destruction on this planet
Reply:I DO NOT fertilize my lawn at all...I let Mother Nature take it's course...To me it's a waste of time and money....
Reply:It depends on what time of year it is. At some times you'll want to feed the grass - e.g. spring, but maybe not so much in autumn. If you check in the garden centres you'll see the formulation is different depending on time of the year.
As to timing that will probably depend on the weather. If its warm enough for grass to start growing, even if it's early spring, and you don't think the grass will be stopped by a frost, then it should be fine to weed and feed. (The weed bit will only tend to work when the weeds are growing anyway).
Sounds like someone uses the forsythia to indicate it's warm enough. I'll have to try that!
Reply:Weed and feeds are generally for lawns as they feed the grass with nitrogen etc and target the broadleaved weeds with a selective herbicide. The herbicide is usually 24D with effectively grows the broadleaved weeds to death.
Your shrubs will benefit with an all round 7-7-7 feed in the Spring, such as Growmore. And even better, a mulch with some well composted manure or compost.
Always follow the instructions on your fertiliser box, as over feeding can have disastrous effects and under use will be a waste of you money.
Hope this helps a bit in some way towards answering your question. Happy gardening.
Reply:Check out this site and sign up for his newsletters. He won't spam you and you'll learn lots, like I did. Go to iBtraveling.com and scroll down and click on free plant tips. You'll see it on the left hand side.
Reply:Most weed%26amp;feeds contain Atrazine which will burn the roots on small trees and shrubs.If you get too much around your flowers it will kill them.It is best used only on large yards.
Reply:I never recommend weed and feed. They have noxious chemicals in them. In the long run they are terrible for your soil. You can have a healthy lawn through organic methods. Weeds get a foothold when you have patches of unhealthy grass. You only compound the problem by treating the symptoms and not the cause.
which is better?
Why are weed and feeds not recommended? or are they? why or why not?
I use them and I love them!! In my area it is recommended to use them when the Forsythia blooms. I have done this for many years with great results.
Reply:Weed %26amp; feed for grass, no matter how carefully you use them, invariably ends up with a black lawn for 6 weeks.
Reply:Most organic folks don't like round up, this chemical has already done massive destruction on this planet
Reply:I DO NOT fertilize my lawn at all...I let Mother Nature take it's course...To me it's a waste of time and money....
Reply:It depends on what time of year it is. At some times you'll want to feed the grass - e.g. spring, but maybe not so much in autumn. If you check in the garden centres you'll see the formulation is different depending on time of the year.
As to timing that will probably depend on the weather. If its warm enough for grass to start growing, even if it's early spring, and you don't think the grass will be stopped by a frost, then it should be fine to weed and feed. (The weed bit will only tend to work when the weeds are growing anyway).
Sounds like someone uses the forsythia to indicate it's warm enough. I'll have to try that!
Reply:Weed and feeds are generally for lawns as they feed the grass with nitrogen etc and target the broadleaved weeds with a selective herbicide. The herbicide is usually 24D with effectively grows the broadleaved weeds to death.
Your shrubs will benefit with an all round 7-7-7 feed in the Spring, such as Growmore. And even better, a mulch with some well composted manure or compost.
Always follow the instructions on your fertiliser box, as over feeding can have disastrous effects and under use will be a waste of you money.
Hope this helps a bit in some way towards answering your question. Happy gardening.
Reply:Check out this site and sign up for his newsletters. He won't spam you and you'll learn lots, like I did. Go to iBtraveling.com and scroll down and click on free plant tips. You'll see it on the left hand side.
Reply:Most weed%26amp;feeds contain Atrazine which will burn the roots on small trees and shrubs.If you get too much around your flowers it will kill them.It is best used only on large yards.
Reply:I never recommend weed and feed. They have noxious chemicals in them. In the long run they are terrible for your soil. You can have a healthy lawn through organic methods. Weeds get a foothold when you have patches of unhealthy grass. You only compound the problem by treating the symptoms and not the cause.
I have a forsythia that I've been unable to dig up?
It's right on the corner of the fence and the neighbor's driveway. I'd like to move it. I had such a time trying to loosen it, after digging nearly a foot, that I gave up last year and just kept it trimmed close. It never has a chance to bloom. I can't even kill that sucker (not that I tried, but I did leave that 12 inch hole - and yet it thrives!). Any suggestions?
I have a forsythia that I've been unable to dig up?
here what the plant likes
Tolerates drought and will grow in dry soil but prefers well-drained, loamy or sandy soils with a pH of acidic to alkaline. (6.8-7.7)
http://www.daytonnursery.com/Encyclopedi...
If you can alter the pH of the soil or the amount of water the plant could die -- if that is what you really want,
Have you moved cuttings of it elsewhere in the garden -- if you want to keep the plant
Reply:dig it up with a madax
scooter
I have a forsythia that I've been unable to dig up?
here what the plant likes
Tolerates drought and will grow in dry soil but prefers well-drained, loamy or sandy soils with a pH of acidic to alkaline. (6.8-7.7)
http://www.daytonnursery.com/Encyclopedi...
If you can alter the pH of the soil or the amount of water the plant could die -- if that is what you really want,
Have you moved cuttings of it elsewhere in the garden -- if you want to keep the plant
Reply:dig it up with a madax
scooter
Moss Garden? What planting or features will be suitable for a mossy area that was once lawn?
Ever since my neighbour put up a high, solid fence my lawn has become overtaken with moss. Having given up fighting a loosing battle against it, I am thinking of turning it into a feature, maybe a moss garden, or Japanese garden. The only other thing that is thriving at the moment is a Forsythia, but I'd like some ideas please. The fence is on the south west side of the garden with a large yew tree (neighbour's) to the south, and the house on the north west so not much sun on that strip.
Moss Garden? What planting or features will be suitable for a mossy area that was once lawn?
First of all your neighbour shouldnt have his fence any higher than 6ft. Before you decide to build a moss or Japanese garden you should remember that most Japanese garden plants need quite a bit of sunlight,so why don't you just start by using some shade loving plants and proggress from there, take your time with it and see whats going to do well and whats not, and if eventually you want to turn the area into a Japanese garden at a later stage then at least you will have an idea what will survive and what will not. These plants are in an area of shade in my garden,
Hosta, pauls glory a larger hosta that seems to glow in the shade.
Sweet woodruff, it has delicate white flowers in the spring it is a good ground cover plant.
Astilbe, a great plant for the shade it has lovely foliage and flowers.
Liriope it is considered to be a lover of the sun but it dose very well in the shade
Bleeding heart is another lovely plant for the shade with either red, pink or white flowers.
Solomonseal is a tall plant of about 1m, lovely white flowers and the foliage is great as well.
Hellebores flower in spring when ther is not much else.
Hardy geranium will do very well in shade witha brilliant show, there are many varietys to choose from.
Try Heuchera purple palace, it needs some dappled shade but it will do well. I hope these will give you a good idea to be getting on with.
There is many a beautiful garden in the shade.
Professional Gardner for 30 odd yrs.
Reply:Don't be afraid to plant Hostas because of slugs. Ward off with copper tape edging. "Backyard living". 1-800-344-6913. Slugs are not supposed to cross over copper.
Keep salt shaker handy, sprinke the slugs with salt, this will kill them. I don't use slug bait kills birds Report It
Reply:tgbc - thanks for tip on Hostas, slugs and copper. I use salt (yuk), but only if they (slugs) are not near plants Report It
Reply:Shady garden because of neighbor's tall fence:
I am surprised that your Forsythia is still growing - blooming in that much shade.
How would you like to design a nice Hosta bed? There are so many different types of Hostas with leaves large or small, striped or crinkled. You can edge the bed with Impatiens in white or hot pink, red....you take your pick. You could also add Japanese Painted ferns, as the look lovely in a shadier area.
From what I learned about moss in the grass or being a sole plant on the ground is that the soil is lacking nutrients also, not only light.
Remove/scrape away the moss, dig up, losen the soil, add some compost and 10-10-10 fertilizer and plant some shade loving perennials.
Reply:If you still want a lawn in that shady area, ask at a local garden center for assistance in picking out a shade-loving grass seed. You might also try to determine the pH of the soil in that area; moss and grass do not thrive in the same pH, so that alone could be what's encouraging moss and killing grass.
Good plants for shade include
Maidenhair and Venus' hair ferns and many others (but not all); Primroses (for which England is famous);
many (but not all) Violets;
Hellebores (which will appreciate the winter nakedness of the nearby trees);
Dutchman's Breeches;
Trilliums;
Jacks-in-the-pulpit;
Epimediums;
Eranthus;
Dicentra spectabilis (the Asian Bleeding Hearts);
Dwarf Crested Iris;
Wild Blue Phlox;
Hepatica;
Bloodroot;
Claytonia, Dentaria, and Columbine (all of which also love full sun--will grow anywhere but in perpetually damp soil);
Oxalis (which are quite hardy, despite claims otherwise, and do well in dappled sun);
Euonymus americana (Running Strawberry, a woody deciduous sparsely-branched shrub-like plant with mostly green stems, small cream flowers, and bright red berries that birds like);
Dogwood trees and Bunchberry (Cornus canadensis, the creeping, cool-summer, groundcover version of Dogwoods);
Polemonium reptans (blue-flowered Jacob's Ladder, which also can tolerate quite a lot of sun);
all of the Trout lilies;
Sedum ternatum (white-flowered, low, creeping woodland sedum, one of the few sedums that prospers in shade);
Virginia Blue Bells;
Tiarella.
Even in shade, don't forget to mulch!
Reply:If that were the case for me, I'd definately turn it into a Japanese garden. Incorporate Bonsai and small ornamental grasses. Perhaps a small pond with Koi and a bridge. Yeah, I could see that.
Reply:Whereas I am in the USA, I can not, for a moment, imagine anyone wanting a "moss garden". Moss will only grow in heavy shade, bad drainage, and poor soils. Any plant you wish to plant will need soild adjustments or the neighbor removing the sunlight blocks.
You can create a great shaded garden with the usage of Hosta, Bleeding Heart, Various Ferns, and trees such as Dogwoods. Bright colored Bolders can be great in such a setting. Other shade plants are, like the heather, evergreen and will provide color at various seasons. the heather will flower in cold weather, the Bleeding Heart in early spring, but the addition of Leuthocoe, Rhodos, and Azaleas would give you virtual year round garden. Add Pansy for winter or spring and you are set.
Sorry to be so long. You will need to get rid of the moss. If interested I am at gjgjobs@yahoo.com. The possibilities are both endless, and, cheap!
Reply:ferns will grow along with moss
Reply:I would consider some large tubs with shade loving plants, this would be quick and attractive as you could change them around to suit your taste, there are some very nice plants available and can include flowers and small bushes, shrubs etc.
Reply:Ferns(many different varieties avail) hostas, and any shade loving plants. Fill in with some rocks %26amp; a little water fall spilling over onto flat rocks.....
Check out springhillnursey.com for shade gardens %26amp; plant info on what is good for shade %26amp; part sun.
Reply:Big fan ferns. I've seen them in Germany so I know they can handle some lower temps.
Reply:I love a moss garden. I have several different kinds in my yard but especially around the perimeter of my pond. I have it mixed among ostrich ferns and cinnamon ferns, plus some river rock. Since they obtain all their nutrients from the air (moss has no true roots), moss plants require nothing more than shade, acidic soil, and adequate moisture to flourish. All moss plants need is a firm soil bed in a location with adequate shade. It is also imperative that the area in which moss plants will be grown is blown or swept clear of any existing plants, leaves or debris. Moss also seems to prefer poor quality soils with low nutrient levels.
Before utilizing moss as part of your shade gardening plans, the soil bed for the moss plants should first be tested to ensure that the pH is between 5.0 and 6.0 (lower is o.k. - 6.5 is max., but not ideal). If necessary, the soil for the moss can easily be amended with our liquid sulfur or aluminum sulfate to lower the pH to the desired range. Once the moss is placed onto the soil, the sections of moss plants must be tamped firmly into position and watered regularly for the first 2-3 weeks.
A couple years ago, I ordered some moss from a place on-line called Moss Acres. Moss Acres is a one-stop resource for gardening with moss.
Located in Northeastern Pennsylvania, Moss Acres ships four species of moss throughout the U.S. and now Canada. They also offer a complete line of accessory products for growing moss as well as an extensive technical information section. Moss Acres now also offers eight highly desirable varieties of ferns.
From your spelling of "neighbour", you may not be located here in the States, right? Moss Acres probably wouldn't be able to ship you live plants overseas but it's still a good site to visit.
Reply:add some large rocks/boulders and some tall grasses or shrubs. peace
Reply:Try planting shade loving plants like Hosta.
Moss Garden? What planting or features will be suitable for a mossy area that was once lawn?
First of all your neighbour shouldnt have his fence any higher than 6ft. Before you decide to build a moss or Japanese garden you should remember that most Japanese garden plants need quite a bit of sunlight,so why don't you just start by using some shade loving plants and proggress from there, take your time with it and see whats going to do well and whats not, and if eventually you want to turn the area into a Japanese garden at a later stage then at least you will have an idea what will survive and what will not. These plants are in an area of shade in my garden,
Hosta, pauls glory a larger hosta that seems to glow in the shade.
Sweet woodruff, it has delicate white flowers in the spring it is a good ground cover plant.
Astilbe, a great plant for the shade it has lovely foliage and flowers.
Liriope it is considered to be a lover of the sun but it dose very well in the shade
Bleeding heart is another lovely plant for the shade with either red, pink or white flowers.
Solomonseal is a tall plant of about 1m, lovely white flowers and the foliage is great as well.
Hellebores flower in spring when ther is not much else.
Hardy geranium will do very well in shade witha brilliant show, there are many varietys to choose from.
Try Heuchera purple palace, it needs some dappled shade but it will do well. I hope these will give you a good idea to be getting on with.
There is many a beautiful garden in the shade.
Professional Gardner for 30 odd yrs.
Reply:Don't be afraid to plant Hostas because of slugs. Ward off with copper tape edging. "Backyard living". 1-800-344-6913. Slugs are not supposed to cross over copper.
Keep salt shaker handy, sprinke the slugs with salt, this will kill them. I don't use slug bait kills birds Report It
Reply:tgbc - thanks for tip on Hostas, slugs and copper. I use salt (yuk), but only if they (slugs) are not near plants Report It
Reply:Shady garden because of neighbor's tall fence:
I am surprised that your Forsythia is still growing - blooming in that much shade.
How would you like to design a nice Hosta bed? There are so many different types of Hostas with leaves large or small, striped or crinkled. You can edge the bed with Impatiens in white or hot pink, red....you take your pick. You could also add Japanese Painted ferns, as the look lovely in a shadier area.
From what I learned about moss in the grass or being a sole plant on the ground is that the soil is lacking nutrients also, not only light.
Remove/scrape away the moss, dig up, losen the soil, add some compost and 10-10-10 fertilizer and plant some shade loving perennials.
Reply:If you still want a lawn in that shady area, ask at a local garden center for assistance in picking out a shade-loving grass seed. You might also try to determine the pH of the soil in that area; moss and grass do not thrive in the same pH, so that alone could be what's encouraging moss and killing grass.
Good plants for shade include
Maidenhair and Venus' hair ferns and many others (but not all); Primroses (for which England is famous);
many (but not all) Violets;
Hellebores (which will appreciate the winter nakedness of the nearby trees);
Dutchman's Breeches;
Trilliums;
Jacks-in-the-pulpit;
Epimediums;
Eranthus;
Dicentra spectabilis (the Asian Bleeding Hearts);
Dwarf Crested Iris;
Wild Blue Phlox;
Hepatica;
Bloodroot;
Claytonia, Dentaria, and Columbine (all of which also love full sun--will grow anywhere but in perpetually damp soil);
Oxalis (which are quite hardy, despite claims otherwise, and do well in dappled sun);
Euonymus americana (Running Strawberry, a woody deciduous sparsely-branched shrub-like plant with mostly green stems, small cream flowers, and bright red berries that birds like);
Dogwood trees and Bunchberry (Cornus canadensis, the creeping, cool-summer, groundcover version of Dogwoods);
Polemonium reptans (blue-flowered Jacob's Ladder, which also can tolerate quite a lot of sun);
all of the Trout lilies;
Sedum ternatum (white-flowered, low, creeping woodland sedum, one of the few sedums that prospers in shade);
Virginia Blue Bells;
Tiarella.
Even in shade, don't forget to mulch!
Reply:If that were the case for me, I'd definately turn it into a Japanese garden. Incorporate Bonsai and small ornamental grasses. Perhaps a small pond with Koi and a bridge. Yeah, I could see that.
Reply:Whereas I am in the USA, I can not, for a moment, imagine anyone wanting a "moss garden". Moss will only grow in heavy shade, bad drainage, and poor soils. Any plant you wish to plant will need soild adjustments or the neighbor removing the sunlight blocks.
You can create a great shaded garden with the usage of Hosta, Bleeding Heart, Various Ferns, and trees such as Dogwoods. Bright colored Bolders can be great in such a setting. Other shade plants are, like the heather, evergreen and will provide color at various seasons. the heather will flower in cold weather, the Bleeding Heart in early spring, but the addition of Leuthocoe, Rhodos, and Azaleas would give you virtual year round garden. Add Pansy for winter or spring and you are set.
Sorry to be so long. You will need to get rid of the moss. If interested I am at gjgjobs@yahoo.com. The possibilities are both endless, and, cheap!
Reply:ferns will grow along with moss
Reply:I would consider some large tubs with shade loving plants, this would be quick and attractive as you could change them around to suit your taste, there are some very nice plants available and can include flowers and small bushes, shrubs etc.
Reply:Ferns(many different varieties avail) hostas, and any shade loving plants. Fill in with some rocks %26amp; a little water fall spilling over onto flat rocks.....
Check out springhillnursey.com for shade gardens %26amp; plant info on what is good for shade %26amp; part sun.
Reply:Big fan ferns. I've seen them in Germany so I know they can handle some lower temps.
Reply:I love a moss garden. I have several different kinds in my yard but especially around the perimeter of my pond. I have it mixed among ostrich ferns and cinnamon ferns, plus some river rock. Since they obtain all their nutrients from the air (moss has no true roots), moss plants require nothing more than shade, acidic soil, and adequate moisture to flourish. All moss plants need is a firm soil bed in a location with adequate shade. It is also imperative that the area in which moss plants will be grown is blown or swept clear of any existing plants, leaves or debris. Moss also seems to prefer poor quality soils with low nutrient levels.
Before utilizing moss as part of your shade gardening plans, the soil bed for the moss plants should first be tested to ensure that the pH is between 5.0 and 6.0 (lower is o.k. - 6.5 is max., but not ideal). If necessary, the soil for the moss can easily be amended with our liquid sulfur or aluminum sulfate to lower the pH to the desired range. Once the moss is placed onto the soil, the sections of moss plants must be tamped firmly into position and watered regularly for the first 2-3 weeks.
A couple years ago, I ordered some moss from a place on-line called Moss Acres. Moss Acres is a one-stop resource for gardening with moss.
Located in Northeastern Pennsylvania, Moss Acres ships four species of moss throughout the U.S. and now Canada. They also offer a complete line of accessory products for growing moss as well as an extensive technical information section. Moss Acres now also offers eight highly desirable varieties of ferns.
From your spelling of "neighbour", you may not be located here in the States, right? Moss Acres probably wouldn't be able to ship you live plants overseas but it's still a good site to visit.
Reply:add some large rocks/boulders and some tall grasses or shrubs. peace
Reply:Try planting shade loving plants like Hosta.
What do you suggest for a hedge?
I live in Zone 5, SE detroit...I put up two decorative kwanzan cherry trees to block the view of my neighbors, but they died in my nasty clay soil....So Im going to replace them....I bought forsythias, but when i take the cherries back, i can get 4 6 feet arbor vitae now that they are on sale....I think i like the arbor vitae better for a hedge, but they grow slowly , what should i do with the forsythias?
What do you suggest for a hedge?
If you would find it of interest, you can intersperse the arbor vitae with the forsythia, which will give you some spring color among the green of the arbor vitae. However, if the arbor vitae are the type that bush out horizontally, they will quickly overwhelm the forsythia. Plus, be aware that the forsythia are without leaves (and therefore visually porous) during all the winter months.
If you are still considering alternatives to the arbor vitae, consider yew shrubs, which have a softer look and are more easily shaped. They are also much less disease prone than boxwoods.
Forsythia make great specimen plants anywhere. Some people like to keep them well trimmed, and others like to allow the branches to cascade along. You get to choose the best way for your tastes and needs.
Reply:My husband has had it with our new neighbors and planted bamboo. I'm told this can be a headache and grow all over the place, but so far it is growing fast.
Reply:use wild rose bushes they will grow in anything.
Reply:No BAmboo like someone said.
Azaleas, pitasporum,camillias.
Reply:Forget boxwood...too slow growing...will take forever to produce a screen. Arbo Vitae is very allergic to dog pee, kills the bottom of the plant, so if dogs are in area, expecta bare bottom on the plant. Pfitzers grow quickly, very dense, evergreen, and good for trim/prune to shape desired. Forsythia is bare during winter, no screen. Yews take a time to get started. Good luck
Reply:They sell pregrown hedges I would buy those
Reply:Boxwood is the only answer...I love it.
What do you suggest for a hedge?
If you would find it of interest, you can intersperse the arbor vitae with the forsythia, which will give you some spring color among the green of the arbor vitae. However, if the arbor vitae are the type that bush out horizontally, they will quickly overwhelm the forsythia. Plus, be aware that the forsythia are without leaves (and therefore visually porous) during all the winter months.
If you are still considering alternatives to the arbor vitae, consider yew shrubs, which have a softer look and are more easily shaped. They are also much less disease prone than boxwoods.
Forsythia make great specimen plants anywhere. Some people like to keep them well trimmed, and others like to allow the branches to cascade along. You get to choose the best way for your tastes and needs.
Reply:My husband has had it with our new neighbors and planted bamboo. I'm told this can be a headache and grow all over the place, but so far it is growing fast.
Reply:use wild rose bushes they will grow in anything.
Reply:No BAmboo like someone said.
Azaleas, pitasporum,camillias.
Reply:Forget boxwood...too slow growing...will take forever to produce a screen. Arbo Vitae is very allergic to dog pee, kills the bottom of the plant, so if dogs are in area, expecta bare bottom on the plant. Pfitzers grow quickly, very dense, evergreen, and good for trim/prune to shape desired. Forsythia is bare during winter, no screen. Yews take a time to get started. Good luck
Reply:They sell pregrown hedges I would buy those
Reply:Boxwood is the only answer...I love it.
Question about frost for all you gardners out there?
i had no idea it was going to frost last night, but it did. will my newly planted forsythia bush be ok?? we also planted some vegetables (in containers) a few days ago and they are outside as well.
Question about frost for all you gardners out there?
You forsythia will laugh at the frost. Ever heard the expression "Three snows after the forsythia blooms"?
In general, woody shrubs and trees are fine. If a frost is preceded by warm weather, and the plants have pushed out new tender growth, the new growth may be nipped. Tight buds will be just fine. They formed in the winter, they're built for frost.
Light frosts are also no great danger to cool weather veggies that have been acclimated. If you just planted some that have spent the previous few weeks in a greenhouse, they might get nipped.
Tender veggies that don't get put out until after frost might get killed. Just see what bounces back this afternoon.
Reply:As a gardener you do have to be aware of frost reports. In this case I am confident your forsythia will be okay, because it's nearly impossible to kill forsythia. In regard to your veggies, they might have suffered but you won't know for a few days. In general veggies (except for root crops like carrots and onions, leeks etc.) aren't supposed to be planted until after the frost-free date in your area. If a frost is predicted, you can cover plants with an old sheet overnight, but be sure to remove the sheet in the morning.
Reply:if you have a frost and you did not cover up water the plants to knock off the frost.do this as soon as you can.your veggies may be smoked.I took a hard frost last year and with a little water was fine.
Question about frost for all you gardners out there?
You forsythia will laugh at the frost. Ever heard the expression "Three snows after the forsythia blooms"?
In general, woody shrubs and trees are fine. If a frost is preceded by warm weather, and the plants have pushed out new tender growth, the new growth may be nipped. Tight buds will be just fine. They formed in the winter, they're built for frost.
Light frosts are also no great danger to cool weather veggies that have been acclimated. If you just planted some that have spent the previous few weeks in a greenhouse, they might get nipped.
Tender veggies that don't get put out until after frost might get killed. Just see what bounces back this afternoon.
Reply:As a gardener you do have to be aware of frost reports. In this case I am confident your forsythia will be okay, because it's nearly impossible to kill forsythia. In regard to your veggies, they might have suffered but you won't know for a few days. In general veggies (except for root crops like carrots and onions, leeks etc.) aren't supposed to be planted until after the frost-free date in your area. If a frost is predicted, you can cover plants with an old sheet overnight, but be sure to remove the sheet in the morning.
Reply:if you have a frost and you did not cover up water the plants to knock off the frost.do this as soon as you can.your veggies may be smoked.I took a hard frost last year and with a little water was fine.
What is the best privacy hedge/plant?
I have neighbors on all three sides of my home and need some privacy. I live in central PA, Zone 6. I'm not a gardner by any means and need help. What grows fast and is attractive - I don't want it to look like I just through something up.
A friend at work gave me Forsythia and said even i couldn't kill it...I'm going to place it in the back border of the yard and let it grow natural. I know it wont be there for privacy (beauty only) but I still need something that will work for privacy (got some very nosey neighbors all around).
I've got 6 eastern white pines (7 foot tall) on two sides in an "L" shape on the one corner currently and they look great but it will be years before they do anything for me. Any help would be appreciated.
What is the best privacy hedge/plant?
Wow, you really have a lot of answers. The forsythia grows well and after a few years it will grow very, very tall. Then, if you do not clear out the dead canes, the flowers will only bloom at the top and the bottom will be a bunch of sticks. The lilacs become huge and they spread. The stalks grow very thick and you will need a saw to cut them back. Lilacs do smell nice when they bloom. The arborvitae and privet look nice if you prune them. I like the idea of having the hedge in different heights with the euonymous because it will look better on your side, but again you will have to prune each year because they grow and grow. Rachel McLeod has many years of experience in gardening... particularly with herbs. She recommends high bush cranberry Vibernum trilobum. She can be reached at 905-659-1001. http://www.everydayliving.com/HomeGarden...
Raspberries spread rather quickly and they do have thorns. You can build a supporting trellis and grow grapes. It looks nice to have a weeping cherry in the corner. Hygerangea bushes are nice and they do grow quite tall, though not as tall and wild as the lilac or forsythia. The flowers can be cut, hung upside down to dry and kept for a long time. The Rose of Sharon is very pretty. A variety of red hibiscus flowers can be dried and used to make tea that can be drunk hot or cold and tasts somewhat like red zinger tea. I like it a lot. Hispanics call it aqua de jamaica (pronouced ha-MIKE-ah -- not like the Caribbean island). Also called roselle or Jamaican sorrel, it is Hibiscus sabdariffa var. sabdariffa. Unfortunately, it may only grow well in Florida, not in your latitude, though I thought I would mention it bedcause I like the drink.
This is a website for native plants of Pennsylvania http://www.pawildflower.org/g3/03_list/l... This is the website for Pennsylvania small trees and shrubs and has a lot of information such as height, watering infor and light info. http://www.dcnr.state.pa.us/forestry/wil... These are the poisonous plants of Pennsylvania http://cal.vet.upenn.edu/poison/index.ht... In case you have trouble growing your plants the botany department of University of Pennsylvania has troubleshooting pages on its website and includes introduced plants as well as native plants http://www.paflora.org/
Have you visited the Morris Arboretum of the University of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia? You might want to see what the plants look like before planting them. Also you might want to visit a formal garden and see what the hedges look like. See Chanticleer Garden in Wayne, PA. http://www.chanticleergarden.org/gardeng... The Botanic Garden of Western Pennsylvania in Pittsburgh, PA is huge. http://www.botanicgardenwpa.org/plan.htm Penn State University has a website with a lot of information about fruit plants such as raspberries,blackberries, gooseberries, currants to name a few. http://ssfruit.cas.psu.edu/
You might want to obtain your plants from:
Arborvitae, Euonymous, Lilac, and other shrubs and trees from Ryan Family Nursery in Kirkwood, PA http://www.ryannursery.com/#
Vines, climbing roses, clematis, wisteria, honeysuckle
Bushwood Nursery http://www.gardenvines.com/catalog/plant...
Rose Franklin's Perienials in Spring Mills, PA. RoseFranklin@aol.com http://www.butterflybushes.com/
Edge of the Woods Nursery in Fogelsville, PA. http://www.edgeofthewoodsnursery.com/
Octararo Nursery in Kirkwood, PA http://www.octoraro.com/nursery.phtml
Not for a privacy fence but for beautiful hardy perennial terrestrial orchids contact the Wild Orchid Company in Carversville, PA http://www.wildorchidcompany.com/index.h...
Reply:please don't use privet as it spreads invasively Report It
Reply:privet likes warm climates and privet like to be pruned each year. Good privet... I just like saying the word privet! Report It
Reply:the original was probably the best answer yet to any yahoo question on any subject Report It
Reply:The siberian elm is best, keep it trimmed about 6 feet high, it grows thick %26amp; super fast in any type of soil %26amp; weather. I planted twelve of them, They are very cheap,they do drop their leaves in late fall %26amp; back in spring. you can find them at: farmer seed %26amp; nursery and at four seasons. Report It
Reply:The siberian elm is best, keep it trimmed about 6 feet high, it grows thick %26amp; grows super fast in any type of soil %26amp; weather. They are very cheap,they do drop their leaves in late fall %26amp; back in spring. you can find them at: farmer seed %26amp; nursery and at four seasons. Report It
Reply:The original answer was not the best answer on Yahoo. To those who said trees - she needs privacy now! Depending on how permanent you want, I suggest bamboo but it is nearly impossible to get rid of once it's in but it provides the best %26amp; quickest source of privacy as you can put it in grown. Report It
Reply:if you want something evergreen, very tall and very dense, consider leyland cypress. they are amazing. they literally grow 5 feet per year. wayside gardens are just one online place to buy. i have 43! total privacy, no trimming! Report It
Reply:I'm so impressed by the chosen "best answer". I agree 100%! Report It
Reply:Cedar Hedge is what I use on my back Property line for Privacy. Fast growing and if you keep the tops trimmed it will fill in thick and give you the privacy of a lifetime. It is fool proof and requires no care except for trimming. Report It
Reply:Im glad I ran across this,I like nature as well,Im sure this help!thank you,nicly. Report It
Reply:im not exactly sure what it is i just saw it on a comercial, but its a plant where u,well,plant and in 1 year or 2 it gets up to 10 ft tall. im not exactly sure though
Reply:Bouganvilla grows like a weed here in CA and will literally cover a house with it's invasive vines and then when it blooms (several times a year here) it is spectacular. It also has small barbs on it so it will deter trespassing too. Comes in a number of colors from red, magenta and orange to white soft green and bi-colors.
The foliage is a deep waxy green and the texture would compliment the pines too.
Reply:a fence
Reply:The best privacy hedge is yur mom.
Reply:You should go some were they hate to be.They would not know if you keep it to yourself.I do not know this one sorry.
Reply:tell them 2 leave u alone.
Reply:Hedges work very well if you trim them when they need it.
Reply:maybe buy sumthing to make it stop!
Reply:tell them to get away from u
Reply:Arborvide (evergreen bush) or lilac (av. purple %26amp; white)
space them 2 feet apart grows fast. When planting Arborvide place a hand full of rusty nails in the hole with it. reason is it needs extra iron to servive!
Reply:There are various types of clumping bamboo that provides an excellent hedge -- there are varieties that will live in just about any climate.
Reply:ok the best would be redtips a great bush that grows really tall if you don't trim it and chinese boxhedge they are great too! but look at what you need for the space and then decide on the plant there are so many it can get confusing! you might want to try one that you like then if it is the one you want buy more!
Reply:Try a burning bush, it has a brilliant color, and is prickly if someone was to try to get too close to it.
Reply:Go to the garden center,ask one of the helpers to show you the evergreen hedges, this hedge stays green all year around.
Reply:Have you tried dogwood? It grows continually all year-round, and it has very pretty, small white flowers in the summer. The branches themselves are a reddish color, and they grow very quickly.
Good Luck!!
Reply:boxwood is nice.
Reply:email me here xian_camilon@yahoo.com.ph for fun
Reply:im one with no green hands but i guess i can advice you to plant bushes around your house or just build a fence.in that way your neighbors would give you the privacy u crave for.
better yet, don't mind your neighbors...life is beautiful..just enjoy it.
Reply:Rose of Sharron grows into a very elegant hedge and is beautiful in the summer. It does well in your photo-period area. Start it in some rich soil water it and as it grows it will become self supporting and thick. you will have to trim it after the second year...
Good luck i hope this has been some help
Reply:stone walls. Very drought resistant
Reply:i would use wood and build a fence to keep your nosy neighbors out a hedge bush has the tendencies of making a good home for all kinds of bees
Reply:I have had similar goals of "privatizing" my yard. You must be mindful of a few things before you plant: 1.How much maintenance you are willing to put up with, 2. Conditions, such as wind, daily sunlight, moisture conditions of the planting area, pets, deer rabbits, etc. 3. How "natural" you want your plantings to look, 4. Other landscaping augmentation such as berms, sprinklers, power/cable lines. 5. Will this be a DYI project? I would recommend that you consider layering plants, such as different types of evergreens that grow to different heights (taller in back). If you must have that boring row of Arborvitae, then temper it with yews and/or euonymous in front. The depth is nice and it looks less sterile. Areas with lattice and vines can break up a monotonous wall of green too. I find that privet gets leggy and messy over time. Red tips may not work in your area. Leyland cypress grows quickly and is beautiful, but it doesn't like wet roots. The laurels prefer a shadier existence. Hemlocks will need to be sprayed. There are several varieties of Holly that might work- watch out for prickly leaves. Forsythia are not evergreen, but they are showy and can grow very "wide". The various tall junipers, cedars might look best planted in clumps. Be VERY careful with bamboo. I planted River Birch in a moist area and it took off like a rocket and the peeling bark is dramatic. Be VERY careful with bamboo! There are some varieties that supposedly do not take over your property-triple check with your local nurseries! Try to leave room for some specimen plantings such as dogwoods, ornamental plums, Japanese maple or even upright Hollies. DON"T plant things too close together. They need room to spread out. I hope this mishmash of info is a good starting point for your project.
Reply:I would have to recommend "Skyrocket Juniper" (juniperus viginiana Skyrocket) for taller areas of privacy. I got some 18-inch long ones through mail order and they turned out great. That was 10 years ago and they are almost 12 feet tall now.
*they are evergreen so you don't have privacy that disappears during the winter months.
*good coverage year-round without being big space hogs that suddently make your yard seem smaller.: even at their current height I can still easily put my arms around them (around 18 inches in diameter).
*Easy to trim if you want--and they top out at 15 feet or so--so you won't have to worry they will mess with utility wires.
*they don't reseed and take over the yard like Rose of Sharon can.
*they do need to be wrapped in burlap for the winter for the first few years to protect from cold wind damage.
*they can be grown close together to provide real privacy and they never need the staining/sealing and maintenance a fence would.
*they are drought-tolerant which is nice in these days of unpredictable weather. During the drought last year I had to work to save my burning bushes, but the skyrockets didn't need anything.
*they make a nice backdrop so if you want to plant shorter things in front of them you can and you have a lovely landscape to look at instead of your neighbor's garage.
*after 10 years, I wish I had planted more of them
For less privacy, but a definite border I have the compact Korean boxwood--year round green and tolerant of cold to 40 below zero!
Reply:Red Tip Photinia will grow to 15 feet and you can cut them at any height
Reply:pivets work
Reply:siberian elms work great, more you trim the thicker they get and very hardy, russian autumn olives, and giant green thuja's
www.4seasonsnursey.com
Reply:Leyland Cypress is hardy to Zone 6. It is a pyramidal tree, to 30-40 feet tall and 25 to 30 feet wide which makes it good for tall screen. It is graceful, somewhat open habit of growth. Give ample room, to allow for symmetry of growth. It grows well in a variety of soils, but prefers good drainage.
Reply:I have/had the same problem, except mine wasn't nosy neighbors. Its because we live on a corner and have a lot people out walking their dogs ans stuff and my dogs would go crazy every time another dog went by. Our city has some pain-in-the-butt ordinances that say we can't put up more than a 4-foot tall fence, which deosn't do a lot of good for privacy.
So we went on craigslist and posted that we were in search of free lilacs and that we were willing to come dig them ourselves. We had dozen of people contact us saying that their lilacs needed to be thinned out and that we were welcome to as much of thei bushes as we wanted because they always keep growing. We lierally got enough bushes and shoots to create a hedge that's over 25 feet long. Won't give us much privacy for a year or two. But eventually we will have a nice, natural looking private, and great smelling side yard! And at 100's of dollars less that it would have cost to buy plants. Check into cragslist for your area.
Reply:You could plant a variety of bushes/shrubbery. The thought I have is that if you are going to box in your backyard, it is not going to get a breeze. It will be sweltering in there. Forsythia is very good and you will have a nice showing come spring time. You could plant burning bushes on another side, and box hedges (something you can trim) between the trees that make the L shape. Personally, I'd go see your local nursery.
Reply:You do not need the hedge. Build a good fence
amc theatre
A friend at work gave me Forsythia and said even i couldn't kill it...I'm going to place it in the back border of the yard and let it grow natural. I know it wont be there for privacy (beauty only) but I still need something that will work for privacy (got some very nosey neighbors all around).
I've got 6 eastern white pines (7 foot tall) on two sides in an "L" shape on the one corner currently and they look great but it will be years before they do anything for me. Any help would be appreciated.
What is the best privacy hedge/plant?
Wow, you really have a lot of answers. The forsythia grows well and after a few years it will grow very, very tall. Then, if you do not clear out the dead canes, the flowers will only bloom at the top and the bottom will be a bunch of sticks. The lilacs become huge and they spread. The stalks grow very thick and you will need a saw to cut them back. Lilacs do smell nice when they bloom. The arborvitae and privet look nice if you prune them. I like the idea of having the hedge in different heights with the euonymous because it will look better on your side, but again you will have to prune each year because they grow and grow. Rachel McLeod has many years of experience in gardening... particularly with herbs. She recommends high bush cranberry Vibernum trilobum. She can be reached at 905-659-1001. http://www.everydayliving.com/HomeGarden...
Raspberries spread rather quickly and they do have thorns. You can build a supporting trellis and grow grapes. It looks nice to have a weeping cherry in the corner. Hygerangea bushes are nice and they do grow quite tall, though not as tall and wild as the lilac or forsythia. The flowers can be cut, hung upside down to dry and kept for a long time. The Rose of Sharon is very pretty. A variety of red hibiscus flowers can be dried and used to make tea that can be drunk hot or cold and tasts somewhat like red zinger tea. I like it a lot. Hispanics call it aqua de jamaica (pronouced ha-MIKE-ah -- not like the Caribbean island). Also called roselle or Jamaican sorrel, it is Hibiscus sabdariffa var. sabdariffa. Unfortunately, it may only grow well in Florida, not in your latitude, though I thought I would mention it bedcause I like the drink.
This is a website for native plants of Pennsylvania http://www.pawildflower.org/g3/03_list/l... This is the website for Pennsylvania small trees and shrubs and has a lot of information such as height, watering infor and light info. http://www.dcnr.state.pa.us/forestry/wil... These are the poisonous plants of Pennsylvania http://cal.vet.upenn.edu/poison/index.ht... In case you have trouble growing your plants the botany department of University of Pennsylvania has troubleshooting pages on its website and includes introduced plants as well as native plants http://www.paflora.org/
Have you visited the Morris Arboretum of the University of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia? You might want to see what the plants look like before planting them. Also you might want to visit a formal garden and see what the hedges look like. See Chanticleer Garden in Wayne, PA. http://www.chanticleergarden.org/gardeng... The Botanic Garden of Western Pennsylvania in Pittsburgh, PA is huge. http://www.botanicgardenwpa.org/plan.htm Penn State University has a website with a lot of information about fruit plants such as raspberries,blackberries, gooseberries, currants to name a few. http://ssfruit.cas.psu.edu/
You might want to obtain your plants from:
Arborvitae, Euonymous, Lilac, and other shrubs and trees from Ryan Family Nursery in Kirkwood, PA http://www.ryannursery.com/#
Vines, climbing roses, clematis, wisteria, honeysuckle
Bushwood Nursery http://www.gardenvines.com/catalog/plant...
Rose Franklin's Perienials in Spring Mills, PA. RoseFranklin@aol.com http://www.butterflybushes.com/
Edge of the Woods Nursery in Fogelsville, PA. http://www.edgeofthewoodsnursery.com/
Octararo Nursery in Kirkwood, PA http://www.octoraro.com/nursery.phtml
Not for a privacy fence but for beautiful hardy perennial terrestrial orchids contact the Wild Orchid Company in Carversville, PA http://www.wildorchidcompany.com/index.h...
Reply:please don't use privet as it spreads invasively Report It
Reply:privet likes warm climates and privet like to be pruned each year. Good privet... I just like saying the word privet! Report It
Reply:the original was probably the best answer yet to any yahoo question on any subject Report It
Reply:The siberian elm is best, keep it trimmed about 6 feet high, it grows thick %26amp; super fast in any type of soil %26amp; weather. I planted twelve of them, They are very cheap,they do drop their leaves in late fall %26amp; back in spring. you can find them at: farmer seed %26amp; nursery and at four seasons. Report It
Reply:The siberian elm is best, keep it trimmed about 6 feet high, it grows thick %26amp; grows super fast in any type of soil %26amp; weather. They are very cheap,they do drop their leaves in late fall %26amp; back in spring. you can find them at: farmer seed %26amp; nursery and at four seasons. Report It
Reply:The original answer was not the best answer on Yahoo. To those who said trees - she needs privacy now! Depending on how permanent you want, I suggest bamboo but it is nearly impossible to get rid of once it's in but it provides the best %26amp; quickest source of privacy as you can put it in grown. Report It
Reply:if you want something evergreen, very tall and very dense, consider leyland cypress. they are amazing. they literally grow 5 feet per year. wayside gardens are just one online place to buy. i have 43! total privacy, no trimming! Report It
Reply:I'm so impressed by the chosen "best answer". I agree 100%! Report It
Reply:Cedar Hedge is what I use on my back Property line for Privacy. Fast growing and if you keep the tops trimmed it will fill in thick and give you the privacy of a lifetime. It is fool proof and requires no care except for trimming. Report It
Reply:Im glad I ran across this,I like nature as well,Im sure this help!thank you,nicly. Report It
Reply:im not exactly sure what it is i just saw it on a comercial, but its a plant where u,well,plant and in 1 year or 2 it gets up to 10 ft tall. im not exactly sure though
Reply:Bouganvilla grows like a weed here in CA and will literally cover a house with it's invasive vines and then when it blooms (several times a year here) it is spectacular. It also has small barbs on it so it will deter trespassing too. Comes in a number of colors from red, magenta and orange to white soft green and bi-colors.
The foliage is a deep waxy green and the texture would compliment the pines too.
Reply:a fence
Reply:The best privacy hedge is yur mom.
Reply:You should go some were they hate to be.They would not know if you keep it to yourself.I do not know this one sorry.
Reply:tell them 2 leave u alone.
Reply:Hedges work very well if you trim them when they need it.
Reply:maybe buy sumthing to make it stop!
Reply:tell them to get away from u
Reply:Arborvide (evergreen bush) or lilac (av. purple %26amp; white)
space them 2 feet apart grows fast. When planting Arborvide place a hand full of rusty nails in the hole with it. reason is it needs extra iron to servive!
Reply:There are various types of clumping bamboo that provides an excellent hedge -- there are varieties that will live in just about any climate.
Reply:ok the best would be redtips a great bush that grows really tall if you don't trim it and chinese boxhedge they are great too! but look at what you need for the space and then decide on the plant there are so many it can get confusing! you might want to try one that you like then if it is the one you want buy more!
Reply:Try a burning bush, it has a brilliant color, and is prickly if someone was to try to get too close to it.
Reply:Go to the garden center,ask one of the helpers to show you the evergreen hedges, this hedge stays green all year around.
Reply:Have you tried dogwood? It grows continually all year-round, and it has very pretty, small white flowers in the summer. The branches themselves are a reddish color, and they grow very quickly.
Good Luck!!
Reply:boxwood is nice.
Reply:email me here xian_camilon@yahoo.com.ph for fun
Reply:im one with no green hands but i guess i can advice you to plant bushes around your house or just build a fence.in that way your neighbors would give you the privacy u crave for.
better yet, don't mind your neighbors...life is beautiful..just enjoy it.
Reply:Rose of Sharron grows into a very elegant hedge and is beautiful in the summer. It does well in your photo-period area. Start it in some rich soil water it and as it grows it will become self supporting and thick. you will have to trim it after the second year...
Good luck i hope this has been some help
Reply:stone walls. Very drought resistant
Reply:i would use wood and build a fence to keep your nosy neighbors out a hedge bush has the tendencies of making a good home for all kinds of bees
Reply:I have had similar goals of "privatizing" my yard. You must be mindful of a few things before you plant: 1.How much maintenance you are willing to put up with, 2. Conditions, such as wind, daily sunlight, moisture conditions of the planting area, pets, deer rabbits, etc. 3. How "natural" you want your plantings to look, 4. Other landscaping augmentation such as berms, sprinklers, power/cable lines. 5. Will this be a DYI project? I would recommend that you consider layering plants, such as different types of evergreens that grow to different heights (taller in back). If you must have that boring row of Arborvitae, then temper it with yews and/or euonymous in front. The depth is nice and it looks less sterile. Areas with lattice and vines can break up a monotonous wall of green too. I find that privet gets leggy and messy over time. Red tips may not work in your area. Leyland cypress grows quickly and is beautiful, but it doesn't like wet roots. The laurels prefer a shadier existence. Hemlocks will need to be sprayed. There are several varieties of Holly that might work- watch out for prickly leaves. Forsythia are not evergreen, but they are showy and can grow very "wide". The various tall junipers, cedars might look best planted in clumps. Be VERY careful with bamboo. I planted River Birch in a moist area and it took off like a rocket and the peeling bark is dramatic. Be VERY careful with bamboo! There are some varieties that supposedly do not take over your property-triple check with your local nurseries! Try to leave room for some specimen plantings such as dogwoods, ornamental plums, Japanese maple or even upright Hollies. DON"T plant things too close together. They need room to spread out. I hope this mishmash of info is a good starting point for your project.
Reply:I would have to recommend "Skyrocket Juniper" (juniperus viginiana Skyrocket) for taller areas of privacy. I got some 18-inch long ones through mail order and they turned out great. That was 10 years ago and they are almost 12 feet tall now.
*they are evergreen so you don't have privacy that disappears during the winter months.
*good coverage year-round without being big space hogs that suddently make your yard seem smaller.: even at their current height I can still easily put my arms around them (around 18 inches in diameter).
*Easy to trim if you want--and they top out at 15 feet or so--so you won't have to worry they will mess with utility wires.
*they don't reseed and take over the yard like Rose of Sharon can.
*they do need to be wrapped in burlap for the winter for the first few years to protect from cold wind damage.
*they can be grown close together to provide real privacy and they never need the staining/sealing and maintenance a fence would.
*they are drought-tolerant which is nice in these days of unpredictable weather. During the drought last year I had to work to save my burning bushes, but the skyrockets didn't need anything.
*they make a nice backdrop so if you want to plant shorter things in front of them you can and you have a lovely landscape to look at instead of your neighbor's garage.
*after 10 years, I wish I had planted more of them
For less privacy, but a definite border I have the compact Korean boxwood--year round green and tolerant of cold to 40 below zero!
Reply:Red Tip Photinia will grow to 15 feet and you can cut them at any height
Reply:pivets work
Reply:siberian elms work great, more you trim the thicker they get and very hardy, russian autumn olives, and giant green thuja's
www.4seasonsnursey.com
Reply:Leyland Cypress is hardy to Zone 6. It is a pyramidal tree, to 30-40 feet tall and 25 to 30 feet wide which makes it good for tall screen. It is graceful, somewhat open habit of growth. Give ample room, to allow for symmetry of growth. It grows well in a variety of soils, but prefers good drainage.
Reply:I have/had the same problem, except mine wasn't nosy neighbors. Its because we live on a corner and have a lot people out walking their dogs ans stuff and my dogs would go crazy every time another dog went by. Our city has some pain-in-the-butt ordinances that say we can't put up more than a 4-foot tall fence, which deosn't do a lot of good for privacy.
So we went on craigslist and posted that we were in search of free lilacs and that we were willing to come dig them ourselves. We had dozen of people contact us saying that their lilacs needed to be thinned out and that we were welcome to as much of thei bushes as we wanted because they always keep growing. We lierally got enough bushes and shoots to create a hedge that's over 25 feet long. Won't give us much privacy for a year or two. But eventually we will have a nice, natural looking private, and great smelling side yard! And at 100's of dollars less that it would have cost to buy plants. Check into cragslist for your area.
Reply:You could plant a variety of bushes/shrubbery. The thought I have is that if you are going to box in your backyard, it is not going to get a breeze. It will be sweltering in there. Forsythia is very good and you will have a nice showing come spring time. You could plant burning bushes on another side, and box hedges (something you can trim) between the trees that make the L shape. Personally, I'd go see your local nursery.
Reply:You do not need the hedge. Build a good fence
amc theatre
Is it possible to root cuttings from a RHODODENDRON?
I trimmed a substancial branch from my Rhodo, and would love to grow another as it was planted in the memory of a family member. I can't bear to throw it away. I have successfully rooted forsythia, but am unsure if it is the same process.
Is it possible to root cuttings from a RHODODENDRON?
Another good way to propagate rhododendrons is aerial or ground layering. If you have never layered a plant before then check this site or do a web search.
http://www.fiftyplusnews.com/matthews/ap...
Good luck.
Reply:Here is a site with full instructions from the American Rhododendron Society. Hopefully, that has all the information you may need. Good luck!!
Reply:yes same process just keep your cuttings abuot 6 inches
Reply:Yes, it is the same. Rooting techniques work on almost all plants.
The difference is the size of the cutting that is able to root.
As a rule, the thinner the cutting, the better its chances. Thick branches will only root for certain types of plants.
I am not sure the size contstrains for a rhododendrum, but it never hurts to try.
Just place it in wet soil and keep it wet until it roots, should root in a few weeks atmost if it is goingto.
It also helps to remove the top layer of bark, as this exposes the Cambium, which is where growth takes place. by exposing it it is morelikely to sprout roots.
Is it possible to root cuttings from a RHODODENDRON?
Another good way to propagate rhododendrons is aerial or ground layering. If you have never layered a plant before then check this site or do a web search.
http://www.fiftyplusnews.com/matthews/ap...
Good luck.
Reply:Here is a site with full instructions from the American Rhododendron Society. Hopefully, that has all the information you may need. Good luck!!
Reply:yes same process just keep your cuttings abuot 6 inches
Reply:Yes, it is the same. Rooting techniques work on almost all plants.
The difference is the size of the cutting that is able to root.
As a rule, the thinner the cutting, the better its chances. Thick branches will only root for certain types of plants.
I am not sure the size contstrains for a rhododendrum, but it never hurts to try.
Just place it in wet soil and keep it wet until it roots, should root in a few weeks atmost if it is goingto.
It also helps to remove the top layer of bark, as this exposes the Cambium, which is where growth takes place. by exposing it it is morelikely to sprout roots.
What are the first things to bloom in Spring?
I know forsythia and cherry blossums do, but are there things which bloom before then?
What are the first things to bloom?
What is the thing that most gardners look for to tell them it is Spring?
***** Also when the forsythia blooms, is this the best time to put down pre-emergant on the lawn?
What are the first things to bloom in Spring?
I believe that Crocus are one of the first flowers to bloom in many locations. I usually see mine first popping up through the snow. I spread a bunch of them into my front lawn. Looks way cool. The plant usually goes dormant before I need to mow, and they let me know that spring is here.
Depending on which variety of forsythia, yes (some bloom later). As a general rule, around the time when the earliest variety starts to bloom, is usually a good time to apply it since the weeds will usually be starting to sprout soon afterwards.
Reply:crocus
sometimes they bloom before the snow is gone.
Reply:Daffodils and tulips are what I look for.
Reply:Snowdrops bloom in England very early, hence the name.
Reply:My Camillia is an early bloomer.
Reply:The first things that bloomed for me were my paper-white daffodils and crocus. Crocus will start blooming while there is still snow on the ground, but it is a good way to know spring is on the way. The best time to put down your pre-emergent is when you see the very first weeds starting to grow. You have to look really closely every day. You can't do it when a specific plant starts to bloom because, with all the different varieties of that plant, they do not all start blooming at the same time. So just play it by eye.
Reply:I believe that Helleborus is the first plant to bloom in the Spring or,depending on where you live, the last plant to bloom in the Winter. The different cultivars vary in time of bloom but always beat the daffodils and crocus in Zone 7. My daffodils are just coming up and budding but I have had Helleborus in bloom since very early January. In addition, they remain green all year and don't require a lot of sun. What's not to like?
Reply:bloomin onions!
Reply:mine were always crocus, then tulips, daffodils, and a couple types of lillies
What are the first things to bloom?
What is the thing that most gardners look for to tell them it is Spring?
***** Also when the forsythia blooms, is this the best time to put down pre-emergant on the lawn?
What are the first things to bloom in Spring?
I believe that Crocus are one of the first flowers to bloom in many locations. I usually see mine first popping up through the snow. I spread a bunch of them into my front lawn. Looks way cool. The plant usually goes dormant before I need to mow, and they let me know that spring is here.
Depending on which variety of forsythia, yes (some bloom later). As a general rule, around the time when the earliest variety starts to bloom, is usually a good time to apply it since the weeds will usually be starting to sprout soon afterwards.
Reply:crocus
sometimes they bloom before the snow is gone.
Reply:Daffodils and tulips are what I look for.
Reply:Snowdrops bloom in England very early, hence the name.
Reply:My Camillia is an early bloomer.
Reply:The first things that bloomed for me were my paper-white daffodils and crocus. Crocus will start blooming while there is still snow on the ground, but it is a good way to know spring is on the way. The best time to put down your pre-emergent is when you see the very first weeds starting to grow. You have to look really closely every day. You can't do it when a specific plant starts to bloom because, with all the different varieties of that plant, they do not all start blooming at the same time. So just play it by eye.
Reply:I believe that Helleborus is the first plant to bloom in the Spring or,depending on where you live, the last plant to bloom in the Winter. The different cultivars vary in time of bloom but always beat the daffodils and crocus in Zone 7. My daffodils are just coming up and budding but I have had Helleborus in bloom since very early January. In addition, they remain green all year and don't require a lot of sun. What's not to like?
Reply:bloomin onions!
Reply:mine were always crocus, then tulips, daffodils, and a couple types of lillies
I have a forsythia bush that has gone wild, when should i cut it back and how much so that i don't ruin it.
Cut away. It will grow back.
Coach
I have a forsythia bush that has gone wild, when should i cut it back and how much so that i don't ruin it.
you can cut it all the way back to the ground and it will grow back. cut it now through February
Reply:If you cut it now, you won't get any flowers next year. Cut it immediately after flowering.
Reply:If you don't care about one years flowers then cut it down to a foot above the ground. Then go in and cut out all the dead wood. It will already be dry and loose, not hard to find. If you do that every few years then you will have a healthy happy and vibrant bush.
Reply:Only cut it back right after it blooms. If you cut it back now, you will be cutting off next years blooms. And don't cut it back too much or it won't look natural.
Reply:Don't cut last years growth until you have enjoyed the yellow show of flowers, the first harbinger of spring... after the blooms fade, then be merciless and cut the demon down to one foot above ground. If you have neglected it for a few years you might have a lot of stems that have touched the ground and started rooting (layered). Spring is the time to pull these out and give'em to the neighbors or plant yourself an impenetrable hedge. The beast will not die, but let it put on it's show.
Coach
I have a forsythia bush that has gone wild, when should i cut it back and how much so that i don't ruin it.
you can cut it all the way back to the ground and it will grow back. cut it now through February
Reply:If you cut it now, you won't get any flowers next year. Cut it immediately after flowering.
Reply:If you don't care about one years flowers then cut it down to a foot above the ground. Then go in and cut out all the dead wood. It will already be dry and loose, not hard to find. If you do that every few years then you will have a healthy happy and vibrant bush.
Reply:Only cut it back right after it blooms. If you cut it back now, you will be cutting off next years blooms. And don't cut it back too much or it won't look natural.
Reply:Don't cut last years growth until you have enjoyed the yellow show of flowers, the first harbinger of spring... after the blooms fade, then be merciless and cut the demon down to one foot above ground. If you have neglected it for a few years you might have a lot of stems that have touched the ground and started rooting (layered). Spring is the time to pull these out and give'em to the neighbors or plant yourself an impenetrable hedge. The beast will not die, but let it put on it's show.
Need to kill Forsythia bush.?
I have used a whole can of Ortho Brush-Be-Gone and this stupid Forsythia bush will not die! It is up against a fence and weaving into it like a vine as it grows so having it dug out is not an option. Is there any other commercial plant killer or method that anyone could suggest?
Need to kill Forsythia bush.?
Try lime - cut it out as much as possible and chemically burn the rest by pouring a small pile of lime on it. If that fails, dig it out further and try some lye (Drain-o). Put a layer of dirt over it in either case to keep animals and children away until that lye or lime dissipates a little. Mark the area and warn people off it. Watch out, though, it can also corrode the fence, so keep it on the root area of the plant.
Reply:If you can't rip it out of the groud, I suggest cutting it completly off and submerge it in weed barrier and moss..
good luck!
Reply:HAVE YOU TRIED BLEACH, MY FATHER KILLS EVERYTHING WITH IT.
my horses
Need to kill Forsythia bush.?
Try lime - cut it out as much as possible and chemically burn the rest by pouring a small pile of lime on it. If that fails, dig it out further and try some lye (Drain-o). Put a layer of dirt over it in either case to keep animals and children away until that lye or lime dissipates a little. Mark the area and warn people off it. Watch out, though, it can also corrode the fence, so keep it on the root area of the plant.
Reply:If you can't rip it out of the groud, I suggest cutting it completly off and submerge it in weed barrier and moss..
good luck!
Reply:HAVE YOU TRIED BLEACH, MY FATHER KILLS EVERYTHING WITH IT.
my horses
Will my Forsythia be harmed if I move it now? I am in zone 7.?
Forsythias grow like weeds, they are very hardy. You will be hard pressed to harm it.
Normally it would be best to dig it up and transplant it in the late fall, after it has dropped its leaves. Since it hasn't bloomed yet, you should not have a problem. Just dig up as much of the root as you can, and then keep it well-watered for the first few weeks.
Will my Forsythia be harmed if I move it now? I am in zone 7.?
That's pushing it for zone 7; you're going to have to get a LOT of soil with it, since it's actively growing right now. If I were you, rather than trying to move it, I think I'd take cuttings and root them for new plants, or purchase some for your new home. You can do cuttings pretty easily - just take cleanly-cut stems, dip them in rooting hormone powder, and push them into CLEAN pots of fresh potting soil (NOT garden soil - too many microorganisms). Keep the soil moist, and you'll have new growth in no time.
Reply:These plants are as tough as old boots, See Total_BS answer
Reply:Forsythia are very hardy. As long as you get enough root ball, you will be ok. Now (early spring) is the time to do it!
Reply:Hi:
I am a landscaper and designer and I live in zone seven. Forythia blooms in spring, but you can go ahead and transplant it now. There is a chance that it may not take full bloom this year with the transplanting shock. I will link you to a page in the landscape article section of my website. It can give you some tips on properly transplanting your shrubs. Add some organic mushroom compost to the soil. This is an organic fertilizer that will last up to one year. It doesn't smell great, but your Forsythia will love it!
I will also link you to the site map as this page has everything that is on the website. Browse through and see if you can find any other tips, articles, or techniques that may help you with your Forsythia or any other plant specimen or landscape project. I hope some of this information will help you and good luck to you. Have a great day!
Kimberly
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
Reply:I guess if you get all the root ball with dirt it should be o.k.
Reply:Sure, I have moved mine this time of year and I am in zone 7 also. Like the folks above, be sure to get a lot of root ball with it - maybe roll that onto a tarp and drag it to the new location - be sure to get it right back in the ground, too. I normally dig a hole the size I think the root-ball will be, then I dig up the plant and I change the hole size if needed just before I drop the plant into it. I would wait until the blooms are starting to fade beforehand and be sure to cut back the stems by about 1/3rd just before you dig it up and this will reduce the drying effect from the leaves in relation to the loss of roots that normally happens when we move shrubs.
So - once it is pretty far long in it's bloom, cut back the top by 1/3rd, dig the new hole, dig up the plant, then enlarge the new hole if necessary, and plant the plant. You will need to make sure it gets plenty of water the rest of this year, though! They are hardy - it will definately sunk for a bit before it settles in. Water the daylights out of it once you have it in the hole - some folks water it as soon as they have it in the hole and a little dirt around it, then water it again once the dirt is set up properly at the top - be sure to mulch around it so it stays moist over the summer.
Reply:If it has not bloomed yet it might shock it to some degree. As far as living, it should be okay next year.
Normally it would be best to dig it up and transplant it in the late fall, after it has dropped its leaves. Since it hasn't bloomed yet, you should not have a problem. Just dig up as much of the root as you can, and then keep it well-watered for the first few weeks.
Will my Forsythia be harmed if I move it now? I am in zone 7.?
That's pushing it for zone 7; you're going to have to get a LOT of soil with it, since it's actively growing right now. If I were you, rather than trying to move it, I think I'd take cuttings and root them for new plants, or purchase some for your new home. You can do cuttings pretty easily - just take cleanly-cut stems, dip them in rooting hormone powder, and push them into CLEAN pots of fresh potting soil (NOT garden soil - too many microorganisms). Keep the soil moist, and you'll have new growth in no time.
Reply:These plants are as tough as old boots, See Total_BS answer
Reply:Forsythia are very hardy. As long as you get enough root ball, you will be ok. Now (early spring) is the time to do it!
Reply:Hi:
I am a landscaper and designer and I live in zone seven. Forythia blooms in spring, but you can go ahead and transplant it now. There is a chance that it may not take full bloom this year with the transplanting shock. I will link you to a page in the landscape article section of my website. It can give you some tips on properly transplanting your shrubs. Add some organic mushroom compost to the soil. This is an organic fertilizer that will last up to one year. It doesn't smell great, but your Forsythia will love it!
I will also link you to the site map as this page has everything that is on the website. Browse through and see if you can find any other tips, articles, or techniques that may help you with your Forsythia or any other plant specimen or landscape project. I hope some of this information will help you and good luck to you. Have a great day!
Kimberly
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
Reply:I guess if you get all the root ball with dirt it should be o.k.
Reply:Sure, I have moved mine this time of year and I am in zone 7 also. Like the folks above, be sure to get a lot of root ball with it - maybe roll that onto a tarp and drag it to the new location - be sure to get it right back in the ground, too. I normally dig a hole the size I think the root-ball will be, then I dig up the plant and I change the hole size if needed just before I drop the plant into it. I would wait until the blooms are starting to fade beforehand and be sure to cut back the stems by about 1/3rd just before you dig it up and this will reduce the drying effect from the leaves in relation to the loss of roots that normally happens when we move shrubs.
So - once it is pretty far long in it's bloom, cut back the top by 1/3rd, dig the new hole, dig up the plant, then enlarge the new hole if necessary, and plant the plant. You will need to make sure it gets plenty of water the rest of this year, though! They are hardy - it will definately sunk for a bit before it settles in. Water the daylights out of it once you have it in the hole - some folks water it as soon as they have it in the hole and a little dirt around it, then water it again once the dirt is set up properly at the top - be sure to mulch around it so it stays moist over the summer.
Reply:If it has not bloomed yet it might shock it to some degree. As far as living, it should be okay next year.
I have a small tree flowering now with the forsythia, no leaves yet with small red catkin like flowers on it.?
Anybody any idea what it is called?
I have a small tree flowering now with the forsythia, no leaves yet with small red catkin like flowers on it.?
Any chance you could post a photo on a Yahoo 360 Blog or Photobucket account? They're both free.
Also, try the RHS plantfinder website;
http://www.rhs.org.uk/rhsplantfinder/pla...
I googled 'red catkins' and got this lot;
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en%26amp;q=r...
Reply:Need more info but it might be a locust.
Reply:N0
I have a small tree flowering now with the forsythia, no leaves yet with small red catkin like flowers on it.?
Any chance you could post a photo on a Yahoo 360 Blog or Photobucket account? They're both free.
Also, try the RHS plantfinder website;
http://www.rhs.org.uk/rhsplantfinder/pla...
I googled 'red catkins' and got this lot;
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en%26amp;q=r...
Reply:Need more info but it might be a locust.
Reply:N0
Have grown forsythia bushes; when do you prune or trim and how much? There are old canes in the bushes.?
If the bush is in an area with plenty of room to grow, ya really don't need to trim it. Can prune out the old canes after it is done flowering. I leave mine alone and it looks beautiful all summer long. It has suckers coming up around it. I let some grow for one season and then transplant them elsewhere in the yard. The young plants grow just fine and soon I'll have a many pretty yellow bushes.
Have grown forsythia bushes; when do you prune or trim and how much? There are old canes in the bushes.?
I would prune out the old canes, forsythias bushes are very tough and most shrubs with canes benefit from removal of the very old canes over the years. I was unsure apart from this but have a good book on pruning from the British Royal Horticultural Society so I quote the following passage from their book:
'Annual pruning immediately after flowering in early spring is necessary, especially for F.suspensa when grown against a wall or fence for which its lax habit makes it particularly suitable. Forsythia x intermedia 'Spectabilis' and other strong-growing types have a very vigorous growth reaction to severe pruning, and flower production may suffer in consequence, although they make good hedges, flowering freely if clipped to shape once or twice during the growing season.'
Another book says prune only to remove older branches, so it sound like you should just give regular light prunes, and chop out your old canes. Hope this helps.
Reply:When I did shrubs commercially, I would schedule forsythia for when the flower pettals were falling off.
We say they bloom on old wood, because they will set the flower buds on the wood that grows in the summer and they hold till spring. Most early bloombing plants are like this.
Those that flower one "new wood" set the flowers on the new shoot and bloom the same year.
To get around this, but maintain a nice looking plant, I would thin out 1/3-1/4 of the largest stems as low as I could cut. This "renewal" prune makes it so that there is allways a 3-4 year old plant above gorund, so that you have young vigorouse canes bearing flowers and leaves. The plant does not have to work supporting lon geavey woody stems that get diseases.
Reply:i heared that if your put bleach on forsythia bushes they grow nice a green
Reply:We found a forsythia in our new home when we moved -- it had been neglected and did not have many blooms. We pruned it back quite a bit and this year it has the most blooms ever. Evidently regular pruning will help to keep the blooms coming - I would not recommend just letting it go. The canes that we pruned had gotten real long and were drooping back towards the ground -- we pruned it to about a 4 foot bush - maybe 4 1/2 foot.
Reply:My husband always says when in June that's when you prune. Ours grow at least 5 feet tall, Usually after they stop flowering,We prune them also. I have also taken some of the canes, that I remove and put them in water and root, to make more plants.
Reply:Do not prune heavily or will not bloom the following year.
You can cut out the dead canes or older ones but unless you do it in the fall in dormant state it will shock it too much and you may wait years to see blooms again. Still do not cut all the canes, if you must prune in the fall, so some will be left for blooming come spring.
Have grown forsythia bushes; when do you prune or trim and how much? There are old canes in the bushes.?
I would prune out the old canes, forsythias bushes are very tough and most shrubs with canes benefit from removal of the very old canes over the years. I was unsure apart from this but have a good book on pruning from the British Royal Horticultural Society so I quote the following passage from their book:
'Annual pruning immediately after flowering in early spring is necessary, especially for F.suspensa when grown against a wall or fence for which its lax habit makes it particularly suitable. Forsythia x intermedia 'Spectabilis' and other strong-growing types have a very vigorous growth reaction to severe pruning, and flower production may suffer in consequence, although they make good hedges, flowering freely if clipped to shape once or twice during the growing season.'
Another book says prune only to remove older branches, so it sound like you should just give regular light prunes, and chop out your old canes. Hope this helps.
Reply:When I did shrubs commercially, I would schedule forsythia for when the flower pettals were falling off.
We say they bloom on old wood, because they will set the flower buds on the wood that grows in the summer and they hold till spring. Most early bloombing plants are like this.
Those that flower one "new wood" set the flowers on the new shoot and bloom the same year.
To get around this, but maintain a nice looking plant, I would thin out 1/3-1/4 of the largest stems as low as I could cut. This "renewal" prune makes it so that there is allways a 3-4 year old plant above gorund, so that you have young vigorouse canes bearing flowers and leaves. The plant does not have to work supporting lon geavey woody stems that get diseases.
Reply:i heared that if your put bleach on forsythia bushes they grow nice a green
Reply:We found a forsythia in our new home when we moved -- it had been neglected and did not have many blooms. We pruned it back quite a bit and this year it has the most blooms ever. Evidently regular pruning will help to keep the blooms coming - I would not recommend just letting it go. The canes that we pruned had gotten real long and were drooping back towards the ground -- we pruned it to about a 4 foot bush - maybe 4 1/2 foot.
Reply:My husband always says when in June that's when you prune. Ours grow at least 5 feet tall, Usually after they stop flowering,We prune them also. I have also taken some of the canes, that I remove and put them in water and root, to make more plants.
Reply:Do not prune heavily or will not bloom the following year.
You can cut out the dead canes or older ones but unless you do it in the fall in dormant state it will shock it too much and you may wait years to see blooms again. Still do not cut all the canes, if you must prune in the fall, so some will be left for blooming come spring.
Can i cut a forsythia to the ground in fall and not kill it?
I have them along side a creek bed and that's how I keep them under control. About every 3 years I cut every other one down to the ground. It takes a few years for them to grow back but the others are fine. When they are too big I cut them down to the ground and the other ones are big enough to take over. Cutting them down to the ground will not hurt them.
Can i cut a forsythia to the ground in fall and not kill it?
It blooms on last / this years growth so you would not have any spring colour and that is what most of us grow it for.
Don't cut it now. Wait till after it blooms in the spring.
Reply:You could hack it to the ground and mow over it and the darned thing will keep coming back! Those things are nearly impossible to kill let along hurt or injury.
Reply:Yes, you can cut forsythia to the ground without killing it.
However, if you do it in autumn, it will not bloom the following spring.
There are many shrubs that bloom on what is known as "old wood". That means that next year's flowers will grow on this year's growth.
It's generally best to prune right after bloom.
windows web hosting
Can i cut a forsythia to the ground in fall and not kill it?
It blooms on last / this years growth so you would not have any spring colour and that is what most of us grow it for.
Don't cut it now. Wait till after it blooms in the spring.
Reply:You could hack it to the ground and mow over it and the darned thing will keep coming back! Those things are nearly impossible to kill let along hurt or injury.
Reply:Yes, you can cut forsythia to the ground without killing it.
However, if you do it in autumn, it will not bloom the following spring.
There are many shrubs that bloom on what is known as "old wood". That means that next year's flowers will grow on this year's growth.
It's generally best to prune right after bloom.
windows web hosting
I have trimmed a lilac tree can I stick the trimmings in ground to get new bushes like I do with Forsythia?
I would stick them in a big pot first with rooting hormone and some good potting soil until they get started good then transplant the whole thing wherever you want them. If you live in the north they will do great, lilacs like the cold winters. If you live in the south, they will not do as well but will still grow and flower just takes alot longer. Did you know it takes seven years for one to flower from a transplant? Good luck.
I have trimmed a lilac tree can I stick the trimmings in ground to get new bushes like I do with Forsythia?
Lilacs also like alot of water and wood ashes really help them alot too just FYI. Report It
Reply:I have done it. Get rooting hormone at a garden supply center. Plan on about 10% of them rooting.
Reply:yes you can start them that way but put root tone first and keep watered.
Reply:Maybe, but it will be harder. Maybe try putting some rooting hormone on it that is specific to woody plants - available at some nurseries and garden centers.
I have trimmed a lilac tree can I stick the trimmings in ground to get new bushes like I do with Forsythia?
Lilacs also like alot of water and wood ashes really help them alot too just FYI. Report It
Reply:I have done it. Get rooting hormone at a garden supply center. Plan on about 10% of them rooting.
Reply:yes you can start them that way but put root tone first and keep watered.
Reply:Maybe, but it will be harder. Maybe try putting some rooting hormone on it that is specific to woody plants - available at some nurseries and garden centers.
Are forsythia blossoms toxic?
Forsythia is not poisonous.
Are forsythia blossoms toxic?
I don't know. I'll eat one and check.
No, they're not poi---ACK! Oh my god!!! Bllllleeeeecchhchchchchchch! (Sound of me puking out my intestines) Ugh! *Now I drop dead*
Actually, no, they're not poisonous.
Reply:To whom or to what ? Ask a specific question
Are forsythia blossoms toxic?
I don't know. I'll eat one and check.
No, they're not poi---ACK! Oh my god!!! Bllllleeeeecchhchchchchchch! (Sound of me puking out my intestines) Ugh! *Now I drop dead*
Actually, no, they're not poisonous.
Reply:To whom or to what ? Ask a specific question
I don't know how to work with my lilac and forsythia bushes to make them more fuller and more blooms?
In the fall wheh the sap goes down and all the leaves fall off trim them about two foot high. next spring when they come out they will be fuller. Also you don't really have to wait till spring all season long you can trim them back the more often you trim them back the fuller they get.Remember with these bushes every time you breaka limb it forks out to make two. These bushes are very hardy. You can usually just throw a limb on the ground and it will grow. Also if your bushes are thin and spacey try breaking off a limb and just stick it in the ground where you would like it to be thicker or anywhere you would like to have another. This way you don't have to go buy more. Don't give up sometimes you have to redo it. Its just according to where the signs are at. Don' never plant anything when the signs are in Cancer it will die. Hope this helps you out.
I don't know how to work with my lilac and forsythia bushes to make them more fuller and more blooms?
After the first frost.. or so, when they lose all of their leaves %26amp; become dormant, find %26amp; trim back the larger branches about 4-6" (inches). Don't trim too far back or your bushes won't come back out in the spring.
Reply:Generally agree-- what you want to do is cause the plant to put out more branches. What you don't want to do is cut off branches that have next season's buds and flowers. Do a google and learn when the plants set buds-- you trim in rhythum with the bud set.
When you "terminal bud"-- that means you are removing the growing tip-- and the plant will respond with two branches-- making it thicker.
You didn't say what zone you are in-- Liliac likes more northern climates but with afternoon shade will grow where the temperatures are higher. Forsythia do well in southern states and northern states.
As winter is approaching-- and because I'm old-- I'd find a used book store and see what they have in gardening-- Readers Digest has a pretty good beginner gardening book-- there are quite a few out there-- and then you can spend your winter in front of the fireplace, dreaming and learning what you want to do in the spring.. Add a cat and you're in heaven!
good luck
Reply:After the leaves have fallen off or died back, cut the shrub back to about one foot from the ground or to its base if you know what I mean. I could trim causes the bush to focus on new blooms for next spring plus it makes the shrub solidify and not look as wirey. Good luck!!
I don't know how to work with my lilac and forsythia bushes to make them more fuller and more blooms?
After the first frost.. or so, when they lose all of their leaves %26amp; become dormant, find %26amp; trim back the larger branches about 4-6" (inches). Don't trim too far back or your bushes won't come back out in the spring.
Reply:Generally agree-- what you want to do is cause the plant to put out more branches. What you don't want to do is cut off branches that have next season's buds and flowers. Do a google and learn when the plants set buds-- you trim in rhythum with the bud set.
When you "terminal bud"-- that means you are removing the growing tip-- and the plant will respond with two branches-- making it thicker.
You didn't say what zone you are in-- Liliac likes more northern climates but with afternoon shade will grow where the temperatures are higher. Forsythia do well in southern states and northern states.
As winter is approaching-- and because I'm old-- I'd find a used book store and see what they have in gardening-- Readers Digest has a pretty good beginner gardening book-- there are quite a few out there-- and then you can spend your winter in front of the fireplace, dreaming and learning what you want to do in the spring.. Add a cat and you're in heaven!
good luck
Reply:After the leaves have fallen off or died back, cut the shrub back to about one foot from the ground or to its base if you know what I mean. I could trim causes the bush to focus on new blooms for next spring plus it makes the shrub solidify and not look as wirey. Good luck!!
Forsythia not blooming?
I have three large forsythias- two yellow and one white - that bloom beautifully each year. This year the white is blooming beautifully, but the two yellow ones are just leafing out. Why? They get the same kind of sun and are treated the same - I don't cut them back. Anyone know a reason?
Forsythia not blooming?
Did you have a late frost in your area after the buds were set? That happened where I live last year, and the forsythia did not bloom much at all, but did have nice foliage. I pruned mine significantly last year, and we have not had a hard spring frost- they are really pretty this year.
Reply:Perhaps for some reason your forsythias did not grow much last summer.
Forsythia blooms on the previous year's growth. That is why many people prune them hard each spring after they have flowered in order to stimulate new growth throughout the summer. This ensures a good display of flowers the following spring.
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Forsythia not blooming?
Did you have a late frost in your area after the buds were set? That happened where I live last year, and the forsythia did not bloom much at all, but did have nice foliage. I pruned mine significantly last year, and we have not had a hard spring frost- they are really pretty this year.
Reply:Perhaps for some reason your forsythias did not grow much last summer.
Forsythia blooms on the previous year's growth. That is why many people prune them hard each spring after they have flowered in order to stimulate new growth throughout the summer. This ensures a good display of flowers the following spring.
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My Forsythia bush did not bloom. I purchased it from Lowe's last fall and it has not bloomed at all.?
When I puchased it it was dorment--with no leaves. Is it dead?
My Forsythia bush did not bloom. I purchased it from Lowe's last fall and it has not bloomed at all.?
Does it have leaf buds? Have you checked any of the stems to see if they are "green" and alive? If they break off, they are dead, and if there is no sign of life anywhere it is likely dead. Depending on where you live depends when they start budding. In Oklahoma they are in full bloom. h Forsythia are picky and won't bloom on new growth until the next year. So if it was pruned in the fall, it won't have any blooms, if it is in fact alive. Always prune immediately following blooming, so the new growth for this year will bloom next spring.
Reply:If you purchased it from Lowe's they usually guarantee there plants and you can take them back if it doesn't bloom. Pick off part of the bark and see if the inside is moist, and a greenish or white color, if it isn't then most likely it is dead
Reply:it still is dormant, it usually takes a year to 'settle' into its new home, mother nature will take her time to ensure you have many years of enjoyment from your plant, it will definitely flower next year,
Reply:This bush flowers in early spring so there is time enough yet for it to bloom, so be patient and you will be surprised.
The flowers on Forsythia appear before the leaves, which is unusual on plants, but that's the way they are.
My Forsythia bush did not bloom. I purchased it from Lowe's last fall and it has not bloomed at all.?
Does it have leaf buds? Have you checked any of the stems to see if they are "green" and alive? If they break off, they are dead, and if there is no sign of life anywhere it is likely dead. Depending on where you live depends when they start budding. In Oklahoma they are in full bloom. h Forsythia are picky and won't bloom on new growth until the next year. So if it was pruned in the fall, it won't have any blooms, if it is in fact alive. Always prune immediately following blooming, so the new growth for this year will bloom next spring.
Reply:If you purchased it from Lowe's they usually guarantee there plants and you can take them back if it doesn't bloom. Pick off part of the bark and see if the inside is moist, and a greenish or white color, if it isn't then most likely it is dead
Reply:it still is dormant, it usually takes a year to 'settle' into its new home, mother nature will take her time to ensure you have many years of enjoyment from your plant, it will definitely flower next year,
Reply:This bush flowers in early spring so there is time enough yet for it to bloom, so be patient and you will be surprised.
The flowers on Forsythia appear before the leaves, which is unusual on plants, but that's the way they are.
How and when do you prune a forsythia bush?
Gee, I wish I could agree with your first two answers, and I almost didn't answer because I despise turmoil, but here I go........
Okay, first of all, Forsythia blooms off of the wood. Therefore, you will not be affecting a thing if you prune in late fall, which is when it needs to be done. As far as how, this all depends on which shape you prefer. I happen to be a fan of the wild freeflowing look that the plant offers. When in full bloom, it is as if the flowers are suspended in air with no support, and I just think it looks cool. However, some like to keep them more contained and rounded, and some keep them in tight hedges. Whichever shape you like, the time to do it is after the lovely fall color drops off. If you are dealing with overgrown plants that have been left unattended to for years, you probably need to cut them down to around two feet and reshape them. If let go, they become huge.
And, the general rule certainly does not apply to plants that are setting bloom buds during the summer, such as azaleas.
How and when do you prune a forsythia bush?
Find a picture of one and and prune it like that. It blooms on new wood so in the fall would be best. By the way, you can take cuttings the root very easily.
Reply:whenever you have a sharp knife and time.
Reply:There is a general rule for pruning everything:
If it blooms in spring, prune in fall. If it blooms in fall, prune in spring.
Same for perennial flowers, trees, and bushes!
Reply:First, don't try shearing a Forsythia like a hedge - this will reduce the quantity of blooms and result in an ugly plant. You prune it by cutting off individual stems as close to the ground as possible. Never prune Forsythia in Fall - next year's blooms are already starting and you'll lose them. The best time is shortly after it blooms in the Spring. If it's been blooming fine, just remove any dead or damaged stems and enjoy your bush.
If it isn''t blooming well and gets plenty of sun (too much shade inhibits blooming), cut off a third to a quarter of the stems. The oldest stems are usually woodier and thicker and these are the ones you want to remove. Fertilize, etc. as usual. Do this for 3 years and your Forsythia should be completely rejuvenated. It may need it again in another 6-8 years. Best of luck.
Okay, first of all, Forsythia blooms off of the wood. Therefore, you will not be affecting a thing if you prune in late fall, which is when it needs to be done. As far as how, this all depends on which shape you prefer. I happen to be a fan of the wild freeflowing look that the plant offers. When in full bloom, it is as if the flowers are suspended in air with no support, and I just think it looks cool. However, some like to keep them more contained and rounded, and some keep them in tight hedges. Whichever shape you like, the time to do it is after the lovely fall color drops off. If you are dealing with overgrown plants that have been left unattended to for years, you probably need to cut them down to around two feet and reshape them. If let go, they become huge.
And, the general rule certainly does not apply to plants that are setting bloom buds during the summer, such as azaleas.
How and when do you prune a forsythia bush?
Find a picture of one and and prune it like that. It blooms on new wood so in the fall would be best. By the way, you can take cuttings the root very easily.
Reply:whenever you have a sharp knife and time.
Reply:There is a general rule for pruning everything:
If it blooms in spring, prune in fall. If it blooms in fall, prune in spring.
Same for perennial flowers, trees, and bushes!
Reply:First, don't try shearing a Forsythia like a hedge - this will reduce the quantity of blooms and result in an ugly plant. You prune it by cutting off individual stems as close to the ground as possible. Never prune Forsythia in Fall - next year's blooms are already starting and you'll lose them. The best time is shortly after it blooms in the Spring. If it's been blooming fine, just remove any dead or damaged stems and enjoy your bush.
If it isn''t blooming well and gets plenty of sun (too much shade inhibits blooming), cut off a third to a quarter of the stems. The oldest stems are usually woodier and thicker and these are the ones you want to remove. Fertilize, etc. as usual. Do this for 3 years and your Forsythia should be completely rejuvenated. It may need it again in another 6-8 years. Best of luck.
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